Split – secret of life?

You may have heard that Croatia is the place to holiday this summer. Everyone knows that Dubrovnik is the jewel of the Adractic,  and in fact who would dare to argue with Byron’s use of simile. For me though, Split is the top of any list of where to go in Croatia.

A beautiful elegant city with a kind of gritty grace, Split as looks with substance, not the artificial shimmer of Dubrovnik. It can be easy to presume that in former Yugoslavia the pervading feeling will be one of Soviet stoicism, but the Italian influence is evident in the easy living along the Riva, and the best pizza and gelato I have ever tasted. Elegant and old, it has a crumbing and chaotic sense of grandeur.

White and red are the colours of Split, in the amerana and jagoda gelato, fresh tomatos and mozzarella spread across the thin crisp pizza base, wine sold by the litre carafe, and the colours of Hadjuk Split, the football team that ignites the passions of men and women across the city, daubed on walls in Diocletian’s Palace. That is apart from the blue of the sky, the green of Marjan hills, the golden hues reflecting from the sea.

Spires of yaughts, cathedrals of the sea glide past, the rich and wealthy travellers have not commandeered the port for their own image at the expense of reality, men with fishing lines still sit on the water’s edge reeling in the fish that make it to the cool wet slabs of the fish market where the olfactory experience is either offensive or rapturous, depending on one’s opinion of sea food, later to grace the dining tables in russet topped houses and restaurants in the walls of the city and streets winding up the hills.

Split has the feeling of a perpetual holiday, but not in a lazy way – more that the residents have discovered the secret of life, and that it goes something along the lines of ‘enjoy it.’

Published by Francesca Baker

Passionate about music, the world, exploring, literature and smiling. Writing, marketing and events for all my favourite things.

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